Sao Paulo - Mortadella Sandwich in The Mercado Municipal

This past Saturday, I went to the Mercado Municipal in Sao Paulo. I wanted to sample the infamous "mortadella sandwich" (hot baloney sandwich) and the "shrimp or cod pie" that were featured in the Food Channel by Chef Anthony Bourdain during his last visit to Sao Paulo.

The Mercado Municipal Paulistano, is a huge, neo-baroque structure built around 1931. It was recently renovated in 2004. Today, it houses around 300 food vendors that sell Brazilian fruits, fish, meats, cheese, Arabic pastries, spices, sandwiches, pastries and drinks. The setting is impeccably clean and the food, dirt cheap and divine.


The Mercado, is famous for its "Pasteis de Bacalhau" (fried pastry pockets stuffed with cod), it's "Mortadela Sanduiches" (baloney sandwiches which are served hot) and the Pasteis de Camarao (hot shrimp pastry pockets). To order one of these, you must first get a ticket from the cashier in the snack bar of your choice, then you can approach the counter and your order will be filled. If you want a table, you may have to wait.

A visit to the Mercado Municipal for lunch on Saturdays, is a Paulista family tradition, but one can visit the market seven days a week -Monday to Saturday from 5am to 6pm and Sundays from 7am to 4pm.

To get there, you can either take the Metro and get off at the Sao Bento station, or you can take a cab from the hotel. The taxi ride is about 10 to 15 minutes and you can have your driver drop you near one of the entrances of the Mercado (photo enclosed). The building is large and beautiful, easily spotted from a distance; it looks like an old European train station. Don't be intimidated by the circus like atmosphere outside the Mercado, it changes drastically once you enter the building.

Inside the market, it's best to wander around the stalls to view the gorgeous stained glass, the amazing fruit displays, the fresh pastries, the imported olives, the hanging bottles of olive oil, the fresh baked breads, etc. You will also find some snack bars and restaurants. You'll be amazed at the cleanliness and order inside the place.

Don't leave with out trying the "Mortadela Sanduiche" and a "Pasteis". I had a mortadela sandwich with "queijo" (melted cheese) and a "Pasteis de Camarao" (a shrimp pastry pocket with cheese). Both were amazing and they only cost about 8 Reales each! The sandwich was served in a crunchy, warm french roll and the mortadela was piled about 2 inches high. The Pasteis was freshly made and it was crunchy and hot, stuffed with delicious shrimp and melted cheese. Both were huge and impossible to finish in one sitting.

I ate at Mane's snack bar but some people prefer Hocca's. Try and see what place you like best and let us know what you think!

Do you have a favorite restaurant in Sao Paulo? share your photos and stories with us by sending them to :
postcards@me.com

Mercado Municipal Paulistano
Rua de Cateira 306
Sao Paulo
www.mercadomunicipal.com.br

Buenos Aires - Lunch, Parisian style at Croque Madame

One of my favorite French style cafes in Buenos Aires, is the well hidden and easily missed Croque Madame Cafe.

This tiny gem is located on the grounds of the Museum of Decorative Arts (El Museo de Artes Decorativas), in the corner of Pereyra Lucena Street and Ave Del Libertador.

If you go, you'll see the The Croque Madame cafe on you left side, as you pass the museum's front gate. The cafe is housed inside the gate house. Walk too fast and you may miss it, it's that small. Look for the black awnings to find it (picture enclosed).

If you miss the cafe as you walk in, past the museum's gate, you'll find yourself in a small cobble stoned courtyard. Look to your left, and you'll see the Parisian style bistro chairs and the marble top tables tucked away by a small garden under the shade of trees. That's the outdoor garden section of the cafe. Grab a chair, get a coffee, bring something to read and relax in this picture-perfect spot. I promise, it will feel like Paris.

The Croque Madame Cafe has additional sitting inside the "gate house". It's only one small room with very few tables. This area is mostly used in the evenings and when the weather is too cold to sit outside during the day. Take a look inside, it's very cute in there.

The food served at the Croque Madame is fresh and well prepared. The menu is simple and not expensive; It consists mostly of sandwiches, salads, pastries and desserts. This garden is a perfect place for an outdoor lunch or breakfast or for an afternoon coffee break. It's also a great place to read.

By the way, you do not have to enter the museum or pay the museum's entry fee to access the cafe.

DUBAI - A Water Taxi on Dubai Creek

For a taste of Old Dubai, ride an Abra, a traditional wooden boat water taxi that crosses the Dubai Creek like a small, open water bus, from Deira to Bur Dubai.

You can catch the boat on the Deira side, from the Deira Souk Station in Baniyas Road. The station is right across the Spice Market, on the water. The crossing to Bur Dubai will take about 5 minutes, where you will find other Souks, the Dubai Museum and Bastakya, the Old Town that has nice outdoor cafes and art galleries. Each ride costs 1 Dirham (.30 cents in US Dollars).

As you cross, look at the beautiful Dubai skyline and at the old fashioned wooden cargo wharves loading and unloading their goods along the Deira side of the creek.

If you want a longer boat ride along the entire creek, you can rent an Abra for about one hour to one hour and a half for about 100 to 150 Dirhams (around $50 dollars). This ride, I'm told, is most scenic at night.

Be careful stepping in and out of the boats. I've heard people do fall in that water, eeek!

Story, courtesy of Milena Rodriguez, resident of Dubai.

Washington DC - The Hotel Washington's Rooftop Sky Terrace

For a fantastic view of downtown Washington DC, visit the Hotel Washington's Rooftop Sky Terrace. Best time to visit, during lunch hours or as the sun is setting in late afternoon. If you go, keep in mind that the bar is an open deck area, best enjoyed when the weather is temperate or when the sun is out.

The Hotel Washington is located about a half a block away from the White House, in the corner of 15th and F Street NW. The rooftop terrace is located on the north side of the building, overlooking an amazing DC skyline. You can see the Mall, plus the rooftops of the White House and the Executive Building.

To get there, take the direct elevator from the main floor, located to the right of the front desk. Once you reach the terrace, grab a chair by one of the many tables along the open deck, sit back, order a drink and some tapas and enjoy a spectacular view.

When we visited this past week, we sat comfortably at the bar and ordered beers and appetizers. The service was friendly, the servers looked young and hip and the food was delicious. The crowd was a mix of tourists, families and young professionals and the place seemed very cool.

If you plan to visit, keep in mind that the Terrace rocks with a full house on Thursdays and Fridays during happy hour and the deck probably closes during the coldest months of the year (although they claim they stay open all year).

For more information or photos of The Hotel Washington, go to :
http://www.hotelwashington.com/image-gallery.html

The Hotel Washington
http://www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=3279

DUBAI - Delicious Lamb Chops

For memorable Lamb Chops at a reasonable price while in Dubai, head for the Lebanese Restaurant inside the mall that's attached to the Intercontinental hotel.

The restaurant is located near the entrance of the Food Court, next to the Caribou Coffee Shop (on the left side if you're looking straight at the coffee shop). It's a sit down restaurant with excellent service and delicious food. Order the lamb chops with french fries for $12 dollars and you may even have some left over for the return flight.

Story, courtesy of Susanne Weathersby - IADSW

Buenos Aires - Lunch and Tango

For a nice lunch "al fresco" and a day time Tango show, head to the Resto Bar in San Telmo.

The Resto Bar is a quaint cafe with a relaxed atmosphere located right at the edge of Plaza Dorrego. They offer a daily lunch menu for $35 pesos (10 dollars) and while you eat, you can enjoy the live Tango show.

Lunch and Tango are served from 1 to 4 pm. at the Resto Bar. They also have free wireless Internet.

ps- Heads up! Don't try getting near this place on Sundays when Plaza Dorrego is the epicenter of the San Telmo Antiques Flea Market, for it will be busting at the seams with people.

Buenos Aires - Shopping for Leather

When in Buenos Aires, there are two things you must do, eat steak and buy leather. After you've had your fill of beef, here are some places to purchase leather.

Bettina's - This is a private leather shop/factory where airline crews get their custom made leather goods in 24 hours. I've heard that Bettina, these days, also designs for big shots like Mick Jagger (unconfirmed) and Rachel Ray (Chef from the Cooking Channel). Good for Bettina, but not good for us, if you know what I mean.

If you decide to visit her shop, bring a picture and she will copy it or pick something from her ready made selection. Bettina may be a bit pricey these days, specially as she gets more used to working with the stars. Nonetheless, her custom made work is flawless.

Expect to pay about $200 to $300 dollars for a garment that could cost about $800 in the States.

Calle Murillo - An area of about four blocks where wholesale leather factories keep shop for access to the public. Technically, prices should be about 30% less in this area, but best to know your prices before you go, so you can negotiate well. I've heard (unconfirmed) they merchants in this area may try to charge you more if they hear you speak with a foreign accent.

Calle Murillo is located in the area of Palermo, a few blocks away from Malabia, near Palermo Soho. Ask you concierge to mark the location in a map and take the metro or a taxi - a taxi ride should be no more that about eight dollars each way.

Ave Florida - This is the most popular and best known destination for leather shopping for tourists. Predictably, it's also the priciest. Ave Florida is a pedestrian street located in the heart of downtown Buenos Aires, lined with shops that sell fine leather goods. It's a good place to start, but watch your wallet and purse while walking in Florida, there are thieves that love to pick-pocket tourists.

Prune Outlet - Prune is an upscale leather goods shop in Buenos Aires, with stores in all the expensive malls of the city. They make beautifully designed, trendy shoes, lovely purses and fancy leather jackets. Their outlet store, is located in the Palermo Soho area in 875 Gurruchaga street. Inside the outlet, there is an extensive selection of last season's jackets, boots, shoes, etc.

The prices are well worth the eight dollar taxi fare from downtown BA. Also, once there, you'll be in the vicinity of other famous Argentinian outlets like La Martina (an upscale leather and Polo line), Paula C'ahndenver (casual designer wear) and Blaque ( fun and colorful leather goods).

Do you know of other leather shops, factories or outlets worth mentioning to our readers? If you do, please let us know, so we can post it in the future.